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William Wordsworth, greatest of all the Lakeland poets,
was born in 1770 at Cockermouth in Cumberland. John Wordsworth his
father, was a law-agent. Anne, his mother, was the daughter of a
Penrith linen-draper. A solid lower-middle class background to a
backwater beginning to life.
The education of William started at a small school
in Penrith and after the death of his mother in 1778 continued at
Hawkshead Grammar School. Whilst at Hawkshead he rode down to Furness
Abbey and later in life recalling his visit he wrote;
"Of Nightshade, to St. Mary's honour built,
Stands yet a mouldering pile with fractured arch."
The year 1787 saw him enter St. John's College, Cambridge.
He is noted as saying upon entry,"I had a full twelve months'
start of the freshman of my year."
At University this articulate and intelligent young
man from the isolation of High Furness began to observe and absorb
the world that was on the verge of rapid and exciting political,
social and industrial change. He was to travel through Europe against
the background of the French Revolution and widely around an England
opening to new philosophies and industrial development. William
Wordsworth chose, after sampling this world, to live and write in
Lakeland.
The area we call Cumbria, then Cumberland, Westmorland
and Furness District of Lancashire, was an isolated place at the
beginning of the nineteenth century. Roads were generally poor,
packhorses served the interior, busy little ports such as Ulverston
moved most bulk cargoes; the all powerful railway locomotive was
still a primitive steam engine without wheels or track. Barrow-in-Furness
was a small coastal village, a port of sorts with a population of
less than one hundred, smaller even than Rampside, a village on
the edge of Morecambe Bay with a small reputation at this time as
a bathing resort. In August of 1794 William Wordsworth arrived at
Rampside to join his sister Dorothy who was staying with their cousin
Elizabeth Barker.
Francis and Elizabeth Barker lived in a house that
stood on the site now occupied by the Clark's Arms. The Barkers
house became the New Inn in 1797 and was demolished before 1913
to make way for the present hotel. Francis Barker was a country
gentleman with a modest estate and an investment in the Ulverston
Canal Company.
Wordsworth certainly explored the district seeing Piel
Castle and Furness Abbey and becoming friends with the Baldwins
of Aldingham who lived in the fine large rectory which today still
looks out over Morecambe Bay. His travels also took him to walk
over the sands to Cartmel Priory where he found the grave of William
Taylor his admired teacher from Hawkshead Grammar School. Wordsworth
returned across the sands via Chapel Island and Conishead Priory,
writing later of other travellers; "Coaches, wains and travellers,
horse and foot", Crossing the sands was, before the construction
of the railway, the most direct route into Furness.
In 1805 the memory of Rampside with the view of Piel
Castle and a painting of Piel by Sir George Beaumont caused Wordsworth
to write;
"I was thy neighbour once, thou rugged Pile!
Four summer weeks I dwelt in the sight of thee:
I saw thee every day; and all the while,
Thy form was sleeping on a glassy sea".
As an old man in his seventies he found himself defending
the lake district against the advance of the railway and revisiting
Furness Abbey he found the Furness Railway Company in the act of
driving the permanent way though the Abbey grounds.
Wordsworth noticed that workmen held the Abbey in great
reverence, in recognition and protest he wrote a poem ending;
"Profane Despoilers, stand ye not reproved,
While thus these simple-hearted men are moved."
William Wordsworth died in 1850 and although he is
seen as a poet of Lakeland, his footsteps can still be followed
in Furness.
Piel Castle can be visited by ferry from Roa
in the summer months and looks from Rampside almost unchanged. Aldingham
Rectory is still to be seen. Chapel Island and the route across
Morecambe Bay can be viewed from the grounds of Conishead Priory
which is open to visitors and offers a cafe. Furness Abbey remains
an attraction to visitors and poets alike.
Source: Tourist Information
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